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Stolen Nisga’a memorial pole about to start journey home from Scottish museum

August 27, 2023

Historic totem pole was taken without consent in 1929 from First Nation in northwestern B.C.

Brenna Owen · The Canadian Press 

Two people in Indigenous regalia touch a giant totem pole.
Sim’oogit Ni’isjoohl (Chief Earl Stephens) and Noxs Ts’aawit (Dr. Amy Parent) of the Nisga’a Nation stand with the Ni’isjoohl memorial pole in the National Museum of Scotland on Aug. 22, 2022. The pole will start its long journey to the First Nation in northwest B.C. this week. (Neil Hanna/National Museums Scotland)

CBC News: A memorial totem pole belonging to members of the Nisga’a Nation in northwestern British Columbia is about to begin its journey home from the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, where it has been on display for nearly a century.

Amy Parent, a member of the nation and Canada Research Chair in Indigenous education and governance, said she expects to feel a deep sense of peace when the pole that’s alive with the spirit of a relative returns to the Nass Valley.

The pole is set to make its journey in the belly of a Canadian military aircraft as a result of what Parent described as an unexpected moment of reconciliation. While the Scottish museum initially planned to transport the 11-metre pole by ship, Parent said she felt moving it by plane would reduce the risk of damage.

A man wearing Indigenous regalia touches a giant totem pole.
Sim’oogit Ni’isjoohl (Chief Earl Stephens) of the Nisga’a Nation with the Ni’isjoohl memorial pole in August 2022. (Neil Hanna/National Museums Scotland)

“I’m so grateful that we have some strong negotiators who happened to be in Ottawa,” she told The Canadian Press on Thursday as she prepared to leave for Scotland the next day as part of a delegation of Nisga’a community members.

“I jokingly texted them and said, if you’re talking to some senior Canadian officials, tell them … I want our totem pole to be sent home on a plane.” Parent said her message “led to a conversation with the right person,” and a brigadier general came forward to support the pole’s return.

A representative from the Department of National Defence was not immediately available to comment on the military’s role in returning the artifact.

The hand-carved pole was commissioned in the 1860s to honour a member of the House of Ni’isjoohl, who was next in line to be chief but died protecting his family and nation, the Nisga’a Lisims government said in a statement earlier this month.

The pole was taken without the nation’s consent in 1929 by an ethnographer researching Nisga’a village life, who then sold it to the Scottish museum.

A giant totem pole is pictured in a museum.
The giant pole, which measures over 11 metres, was created in the 1860s. (Neil Hanna/National Museums Scotland)

The negotiations over what Parent calls the “rematriation” of the pole have taken a year. A Nisga’a delegation travelled to Scotland to ask for its return in August 2022, and the museum’s board of trustees approved the plan later last year.

A previous Nisga’a delegation made the trip to Scotland to request the pole’s return two decades ago but an official at the time indicated it was too old to be moved, said Parent, who is a professor in the Faculty of Education at Simon Fraser University.

This time, Canadian experts assessed the pole’s condition and expressed confidence that it could safely be transported home, she said. “That also galvanized us to go there and start our discussions with the museum around repatriation last summer,” Parent said.

Totem pole relocation ‘complex’

A statement from Chris Breward, director of National Museums Scotland, said museum staff have been planning for the “complex task” of carefully lowering the pole in what is the first return of its type by an institution in the United Kingdom.

Parent is among those who have returned to Scotland, where a ceremony is to be held Monday to ask the spirit within the pole to rest while it’s transported, she said. The process to remove the pole from the museum could take nearly two weeks, she said. Canadian Forces will then pick it up from a Scottish military base.

A man carrying a miniature totem pole stands next to a larger totem pole outside a building.
Sim’oogit Ni’isjoohl (Chief Earl Stephens) stands next to a replica of the Ni’isjoohl memorial pole in the Nisga’a Village of Laxgalts’ap, B.C., before the August 2022 trip. (Nisga’a Nation)

Nisga’a community members are “ecstatic” at the pole’s return, Parent said. A ceremony and a feast for as many as 1,000 people is being planned to mark its expected arrival on Nisga’a lands on Sept. 29, she said.

Parent said they’ve achieved something she felt would be “impossible” in orchestrating a successful repatriation at the international level.

The basic first steps any institution can take is finding the rightful owners of artworks and other cultural treasures held in its collections and sharing the items’ history in a way that accurately and respectfully reflects their origins, she added.

Brenna Owen